Thursday, June 1, 2017


man waking from dream in unmade yellow and blue bed

dropping into channel wave on nose of 6”0’ twin fin  

most will answer question “no,” body knows about it

clock a second slow, that one moving system, motion

man on left living in a tent, surfing perfect waves

8 hours every day for 28 consecutive days in Hawaii

light grey whiteness of fog against invisible ridge

shadowed white line of wave breaking across channel

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