Thursday, June 1, 2017

6.1


man waking from dream in unmade yellow and blue bed

dropping into channel wave on nose of 6”0’ twin fin  


most will answer question “no,” body knows about it

clock a second slow, that one moving system, motion


man on left living in a tent, surfing perfect waves

8 hours every day for 28 consecutive days in Hawaii


light grey whiteness of fog against invisible ridge

shadowed white line of wave breaking across channel


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